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Business

Why dealers fly Fifth Avenue




On Thursday, Calvin Klein announced that it would close its Madison Avenue store in the spring. It goes with an exodus that includes Ralph Lauren (RL), Lord & Taylor and Henri Bendel. Gap (GPS) also said during the holidays that it was on its way out, and Versace is reportedly out to leave Fifth Avenue, too.

Departures show how the role of the flagship fashion business has changed. In many cases, high rent in Midtown Manhattan has made a physical store there unsustainable. And changes in consumer behavior have forced many of these brands to rethink their strategies.

PVH Corp (PVH) – which owns Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, among other brands, said it needs to be restructured to "develop the traditional luxury model" for the digital age.

High-end brands used to use their stores in Midtown to attract rich New Yorkers and tourists. The stores often have a brand's full inventory in an elaborate design.

"The expensive cost of these flagships was justified by the" billboard effect, "said Steve Dennis, a retail consultant and former CEO of Sears and Neiman Marcus." It was more about branding than the 4-wall profitability. "[1[ads1]9659005] Each of the companies leaving Midtown faces its own set of challenges, but in general, the value of the cavernous flagship is under pressure as many customers shop online and on their phones.

L Brands, which owns Henri Bendel, Victoria & # 39; s Secret and Bath & Body Works, said it would close Bendel to improve profitability and focus on its siege Victoria's Secret brand. Gap is the circumcision of hundreds of stores as part of a broad overhaul.
  Gaps 5th Avenue Store will close January 20, 2019.

in District: From the 49th to the 60th Street on Fifth Avenue, the lease availability at the end of 2018 was hit 27.5% – up from around 5% ten years ago, according to data from the real estate company Cushman & Wakefield. The availability on Madison Avenue last year was 28.2% from 57 to 72. Street.

"Real estate has become very expensive in New York," said Thomai Serdari, Strategic Marketing and Branding Strategist at New York University's Stern School of Business. "It puts a lot of pressure on brands financially if you maintain stores that basically have no traffic."

The price per square meter of the store ground from 49th to 60th Street on Fifth Avenue at the end of the year was $ 2668, almost $ 500 more than it was ten years ago, according to Cushman & Wakefield. [19659005]

New flagships

Other brands and dealers rethink their New York flagships instead of leaving town.

Tiffany's classic fifth Avenue store undergoes a three-year renovation. The completely redesigned store will be opened in 2021 as part of the goldsmith's focus on attracting younger customers to their engagement rings.

"Tiffany is a textbook example of what is happening in retail," Serdari said. "They are catching up. They have missed opportunities in the past, but they understand that they have a strong brand and the brand was not well expressed in real life."

Tiffany is trying to create an experience around her Blue Box Cafe and introducing the brand to a new clientele, she said.
Nike (NKE) opened a six-storey, 68,000-square-foot "House of Innovation 000" on Fifth Avenue in November, after shielding its old Niketown store.

There are no cash registers in the store, so buyers need to check out with the Nike mobile app. They can also scan QR codes on clothing to send them directly to the furniture, and order sessions with Nike experts to talk about sneakers and clothing for training. The store also carries a lighter merchandise selection.

Nike Direct President Heidi O & # 39; Neill called the company's new store a "flagship of the future" in an interview with CNN Business in November. She hopes it will define how customers shop with the brand in Nike's own network of stores, online and at other retailers.

"We think of flagships as big monoliths," said O'Neil at that time. "This store can be responsive to a New York City sport or culture moment. We can change this space up overnight, which you don't think of with flagship retail."

Other Neighborhoods

While the fifth avenue may have lost some shine, retailers are reaching New Yorkers and tourists in other neighborhoods, said Wendy Liebmann, CEO of the consulting firm WSL Strategic Retail.

Nordstrom (JWN) opens a store on the city's western side, while Nieman Marcus opens a store in Hudson Yards, a development area in western Manhattan. Westfield Oculus and Brookfield Place, two shopping areas at or near the World Trade Center, are also becoming popular for brands.

"Flagships are still working to set a tone," Liebmann said. "What better way to tell your story than where you can control the message?"

Around SoHo, the stores and brands that were born online – including Everlane, Nordstrom, Warby Parker, Allbirds and MM.LaFleur – opened the flagship showroom without much inventory to appeal to wealthy Millennials.

A new idea like Allbirds trying to develop the local US market will have nothing to spend all of its money on Fifth Avenue, says Serdari.

CNN Business & # 39; Danielle Wiener-Bronner contributed to this report.



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